摘要：Chanel的香水总以其独特的魅力引领时尚的潮流，而诞生于1921年的Chanel NO.5更是以结合醛香花香这一特点创造了香水历史上的奇迹。本文以Chanel的一款女士香水——NO.5 Eau Premiere作为研究对象，研究了其仿制技术。通过了GC-MS的分析和嗅辨确定了该香水的香韵组成及主要原料,并拟定配方对该香水进行仿制；通过实验不断对配方进行优化，其结果为柑橘果香：8.2%～8.5%、醛香：3.0%～3.3%、动物香：15.0%～15.2%、木香：20.05%～20.49%、辛香：2.3%～2.42%、豆香：6.0%～6.11%、青滋香：16.2%～16.8%、蜜甜香：0.55%～0.66%、花香：30.0%～30.4%、琥珀香：1.0%～1.1%。61909

最终获得一个与样品香气相近的香水。通过三角测试的辨香实验，使仿制的Chanel NO.5 Eau Premiere女用香水香精的香气组成及香气结构都得到了完整的诠释。此款香水前调为清新橙花，中调为复杂花香，后调为麝香、香荚兰及木香，优雅迷人。

毕业论文关键字：女士香水；研究；仿制

Research on Female Perfume Imitation of Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere (2015)

Abstract: Chanel perfume can lead the fashion trend in the world with its unique charm.And Chanel No.5 what was born in 1921 was to combine the characteristics of floral and aldehyde to create the miracle in the history of the perfume.The paper studies one of the women's fragrances of Chanel NO.5 Eau Premiere, to tell how to research and imitate the perfume of Chanel NO.5 Eau Premiere. Through the GC-MS and smell, decide the fragrance and composition. Analyze how to select the making formulas for perfume imitation how to adjust and optimize its formulas by experiments and how to achieve the success finally in details. It’s including citus：8.2%～8.5%、aldehyde：3.0%～3.3%、musk：15.0%～15.2%、woody：20.05%～20.49%、spicy：2.3%～2.42.%、coumarin：6.0%～6.11%、green：16.2%～16.8%、honey：0.55%～0.66%、floral：30.0%~30.4%、amber：1.0%～1.1%。

Through a series of experiments on fragrance identifying, the scent and composition of the finished imitation perfume based on Chanel NO.5 Eau Premiere have been fully interpreted. This perfume has the top note of fresh orange flowers, body note with complex floral odor, and the base note with the odor of vanilla, musk and woody.It is very elegant and charming.

Keywords: Female perfume；Research；Imitation

目录

1 前言 1

1.1 香水的起源与发展 1

1.2香水的含义 2

1.3研究目的与意义 3

2 实验 4

2.1 实验仪器及设备 4

2.2 实验原料 4

2.3 实验内容和方法 4

2.3.1 通过嗅辨确定样品的香气分路 4

2.3.2 GC-MS分析 5

2.3.3 香精仿制 5

2.3.4 香气的感官评定 5

2.3.5 香水的制备 5

3 结果与讨论 6

3.1 GC-MS分析报告的整理及分析 6

3.1.1 柑橘类天然原料的确定 8

3.1.2 动物香类香料的确定 9

3.2 初步配方的确定 9

3.3 各香韵原料对香精香气的影响 11

3.3.1 青滋香香韵原料对香精香气的影响